Amethyst, a beautiful young girl, was on her way to pay worshipto the mythological goddess Diana when tigers were about to pounce on her underorders of the Greek god Bacchus. Inorder to save her Diana immediately froze the girl into a clear crystal and Bacchus in his grief poured grape juice over her so that she glowed a beautiful purple color. From then on the gemstone amethyst was believed to calm anger andrelieve frustrated passion. Derived from a Greek word “amethustos” which means to prevent intoxication.
Originally mined in the Ural Mountains in Russia, this beautiful reddish purple stone wastraded throughout Europe. Found in excavated grave sites the amethystcrystal was collected and treasured by many different tribes for its mysticalqualities. The oldest crystal object found dates to 7500 B.C. in the areas ofFrance, Switzerland and Spain. Egyptian amethyst beads andamulets were discovered in tombs and dates to 3100 B.C.
Found all over the world in small quantities amethyst hasbeen revered by different cultures. The Cherokee Indians from North America believed the amethyst to be a living object which they “fed” by rubbing it with the blood from the animal which they hunted.
Worn as an amulet to sharpen the intellect and for protection against harm in battle it was the chosen stone for the Roman army generals. Since the Medieval times, some of the finest rare amethysts have beenused for ecclesiastical purposes. The large ring which the Pope hastraditionally worn is amethyst.
The major source ofamethyst is Brazil and Uruguay wherethe crystals are found in the lining of the cavities in volcanic rock. Approximately 130 million years ago, the coolingvolcanic lava gas bubbles were trapped when water percolated through the rockand dissolved silica as it formed the amethyst crystals. As the iron atoms replace some of the silica inthe crystal quartz the color will form into a mixture of red and blue. This purple color will vary ranging from palelavender to a deep red purple depending on the number of iron atoms within thecrystal. This crystalline quartz cangrow into a large size and has hardness on the Mohs’s scale as a 7. Amethyst is the most valuable of all the crystalline quartz varieties. Crystalsclear of inclusions with a deep uniform purple color are the most valuable.
The beautiful crystalline amethyst has always made an impactin jewelry designs.
Amethysts were often set in small rings, earrings andpendants combined with pearls in the Victorian era.
Mr. Kunz, the gemologist for Tiffany & Co., presentedmany different and unusual gems which were mined in the U.S.A. Tiffany jewelry created in the late 1800’s& early 1900 incorporated beautiful amethyst combined with other colorful gemswhich they became famous for.
After the war, in the 1940’s large stones set in scrolls ofgold became popular, an exgerated deco style. Amethyst,citrines and aquamarine were often set as a center piece with small rubies,sapphires and diamonds sprinkled around the setting. These were the jewels that the Hollywood actresses collected and wore.
The Bulgari family opened a store in Rome in 1881 and became famous as we know ittoday with their incredible colorful jewelry. By using amethyst in their jewelry they propelled the romance of the stone intopopularity in the 1950’s and 60’s
One of the most famous amethyst necklaces was created byCartier Paris for theDuchess of Windsor in 1941. This innovative styled “bib” necklace combined158.9 carats of crystal amethyst, 10.66 carats of diamonds and 33.65 carats of opaqueturquoise beads all set in 18k yellow gold. In the front was a large heart shaped amethyst with three baguettediamonds. Women traditionally worediamonds and platinum for evening wear and the amethyst and turquoise large necklacein yellow gold was a ground breaking style for the time. This necklace is currently on display at the Legion of Honor, San Francisco for “Cartier & America” exhibition until April 18th, 2010.
Regarded by the Japanese as the “perfect gem tama” theamethyst was a symbol of purity, patience and perseverance; all which representsthe infinity of space and time.
Janet Deleuse
Additional Information and Photo Credit:
Cartier 1899-1949 The Journey Of A Style
Skira editore S.p.A 2007
National Gem Collection, The Smithsonian Institution,
Jeffry E. Post with photographs by Chip Clark, 1997
Gems, Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification,
Fifth Edition, R. Webster, Butterworth and Heinemanne 1962
Gems, Crystals, & Minerals,
Anna S, Sofianides, George E. Harlow
with photographs by Erica and Harold Van Pelt,
Simon and Schuster, New York 1990
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