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Aquamarine & Peridot Ring in Platinum

Aquamarine & Peridot Earrings in Platinum

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18k rose gold and platinum diamond daisy necklace.  60 inch can be double or triple stranded.  1.87carats of VS diamonds.  One of a kind design by Janet Deleuse $9,625–

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Twist diamond bangle, 18k yellow polished & satin gold $12,950 18k rose gold collar $5,650

Isabelle Fa, award winners in fine goldsmithing. Dating back to the Bronze Age, chains are one of the oldest pieces of jewelry. The word chain is derived from the Latin word ‘cadena’ which refers to connecting individual links. A chain is only as good as its individual link. In 1955 Emil & Isabelle Mossner founded a small manufacturing plant in Eisingen, Germany with the purpose to create hand-made chains. This is a rarity today since most chains sold worldwide in virtually almost every jewelry store are mass produced by machines. For the luxury buyer, there are clearly differences in gold chains, both obvious and subtle. A passion for detail and drive for perfection are easily seen in IsabellaFa’s precise craftsmanship. Each link feels smooth to the touch –just like a fine silk, the gold is pure and lustrous. This quality is obtained by using the essential technique of producing single links by experienced goldsmiths, the same tradition since the Bronze Age. Isabelle Fa creates a mixture of gold to produce a warm rose gold color in 18k which is unique to their jewelry.

18k rose gold link bracelet with .5 carat of diamonds $8,575

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In 1900 the three world’s greatest designers of luxury goods displayed their creations at the Exposition Universelle in Paris and left an impact on the world with their innovation of unique art.  Paris became known as the “City of Lights” when the Eiffel Tower was lit for the world’s fair.
Displayed together once again as in 1900, The Legion of Honor presented an exhibition with the work of Peter Carl Faberge, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Rene Lalique February 7 – May 31, 2009.

As I walked through the exhibit admiring the art objects and jewelry once displayed together in Paris I imagined what it would’ve been like to have been there seeing this work unveiled for the first time.  It would have been thrilling and overwhelming—especially with the Parisian celebration.  Each object is so beautiful, special and with its own story it is impossible to write about it all. I’ve chosen to review some of my favorites and some with special historical impact.

Organized by the Cleveland Museum of Art, the pieces are on loan from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Cleveland Museum of Natural History, The Forbes Collection, Tiffany & Co. Archives, The Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco and many more lenders which are listed in the Catalog “Artistic Luxury” published by the Cleveland Museum of Art 2008.

The exhibit opened with the House of Faberge’s Imperial Blue Serpent Egg presented to Maria Feodorovna in 1887. Inspired from a French desk clock by Jean Andre Lepaute circa 1785, the hour time is read by the point of the serpent’s tongue. The House of Faberge made magnificent jewels for the royal family as well as the eggs, hard stone carvings and furniture.

Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna had a passion for Faberge’s flowers in vases created from gem hard stones, enameling and crystal.  These beautiful flower bouquets helped to brighten the long winter days in Russia. Russian mineral deposits of jasper, lapis, malachite discovered in the eighteenth century provided Faberge the materials to create miniatures of animals and heroes.

The Trellis Egg is one of my favorite eggs produced by Faberge.  The different colors of the enameling are more vibrant and rich in texture than any photographs can show.  The Imperial Rose Trellis Egg was given to Tsarina Alexandra Feodorovna by Nicholas II in 1907.  The workmanship in the trellis egg is intricate and difficult to produce because of the intense heat needed for the enameling. First  the gold egg is handcrafted and guilloche engraved, enameled in a pale green, a trellis with small diamonds is applied and again pink enameled roses applied and leaves of gold added at the end of the process, all fused together with different melting points temperature of heat.  The surprise inside the egg was a miniature portrait of the Tsarevich on a diamond necklace.

The large gemstone elegant jewelry created with  Siberian Aquamarines and Amethysts mined in Russia were very popular at the winter balls.  Russians were proud to wear gems mined from their own mountains.  One of the most spectacular large Siberian Aquamarine jeweled pin designed by Faberge is in the motif of a thistle. The stem and leaves are paved in diamonds with the Aquamarine as the flower of the thistle.

One of the important pieces at the exhibit is owned by our Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.  A complete tea and coffee service set  made in silver and ivory incorporated in  the Karelian style table  made of birch wood with ornate silver trim represents the artistic work and grace of the time.

Rene Lalique, one of the most famous jewelers in France, was known for his extraodinary renditions of nature using materials ranging from precious diamonds and gems to non precious materials such as horn, shell and coral.  Lalique established his reputation first as a jeweler then moved exclusively into glass making as opposed to Tiffany who started in glass and eventually joining his family as a jewelry designer.  The work that Lalique created was enormous during his life.

I was amazed to see the intricate details of these combs that resembled real flowers.  A Vibumum branch carved in hard stone with tiny diamonds form realistic flower clusters that sparked like drops of water in the sun, we can just imagine how beautiful it looked against the softness of hair.  The Lalique items that impressed me the most were the hair combs that were jewelry for the hair.

My favorite Lalique piece at the exposition is this carved ivory cattleya orchid hair comb.  The petals are carved so delicately and to perfection that the light penetrates the petal, exactly as if they were real.

Native American motifs were very popular at the turn of the century and Tiffany created a series of silver bowls based on the pottery and basket styles of the Native Americans.  I found this bowl to be magnificent in the quality and beautiful contrast of the textured patinas of silver and darkened lines with the cool blue turquoise.
Louis Comfort Tiffany displayed the firm’s Favrile glass which became extremely popular at the time.  The glass vases had abstract flower and feather motifs as well as accented shapes.

The stained glass window “Magnolia” designed by Agnes Northrop, chief designer of flower motif stained glass for Tiffany, was displayed at the Exposition in Paris. Originally purchased from the exposition for the Stieglitz Museum of Decorative & Applied Arts in St. Petersburg, the Magnolia window is currently in the Hermitage Museum.

Tiffany created lamps in many creative motifs such as mushrooms, spider webs, peacock feathers and several types of flowers.  The shades were Favrile glass and the base of the lamps were engraved, made of glass or had stones to continue the motif of the entire lamp as an art form.  My favorite example of this is the Poppy lamp with green oval stones in the base, it reflects a typical art noveau style at the time that originally inspired by Mucha.

This exhibit was not only a walk through an historic event but it was also thrilling to view perfect creative work at one time, too much to absorb and all so inspiring.

I recommend purchasing the catalog “Artistic Luxury”, (follow the link below) for many other interesting related stories and with terrific photos which was also a source for my review.
Photo Credits: Artistic Luxury, Faberge, Tiffany, Lalique
Stephen Harrison, Emmanuel Ducamp, and Jeannine Falino with contributions by Christie Mayer Lefkowith, Pilar Velez, Catherine Walworth and Wilfried Zeisler

Janet Deleuse

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Cartier releases the trinity collection paved in diamonds and gemstones for the one hundred year celebration of Cartier’s opening the first flagship store in New York City.

Three colors of intertwined gold , the trinity rings and bracelets are a classic Cartier design.  Photographed with sparkly thumb prints in white, rose and yellow glitter the bracelets and rings are called  “Trinity, All about you forever”.

This photograph is in keeping with what France’s famous poet, Jean Cocteau, wrote about Cartier’s beautiful work   “a cunning magician, who can capture scraps of moonlight against a gold thread of sunlight”.

Jean Cocteau was one of the first artists to commission Cartier to make an academicians’ sword.  In 1955 the poet drew a design for the sword based on his theme of Orpheus.  The profile of Orpheus is outlined from the handle which at the top is surmounted by a lyre inset with 2.84 carat emerald.  The emerald was a gift from Jean Cocteau’s friend and admirer Coco Chanel. On the ivory disc is a six pointed star with a cabochon ruby at each point.  The diamond in the center of the star was given to him by Francine Weisweller.  The Orpheus theme was very important in Jean Cocteau’s work and Cocteau was to have an influence on the production of the movie at a later date.

Louis Cartier became great friends with Jean Cocteau and of course appreciated his beautiful writings.  The trinity collection was born when Louis Cartier created a magnificent ring for Jean Cocteau which consisted of three bands of gold.  Each band in a different symbolic color; grey for friendship, yellow for constancy and pink for love.

Jean Cocteau wore this ring on his small finger for the rest of his life.

Yves Saint-Laurent also paid homage to Jean Cocteau, France’s beloved poet.

The most incredible coat ever created was designed for the fall/winter 1980 collection called ‘Evening Ensemble in Tribute to Jean Cocteau’.   The coat was on display at the De Young YSL exhibit in San Francisco.  It is one of the most beautiful garments that I have ever seen, a true art form fabricated entirely by hand. The satin and velvet fabrics are by Moreau and the sequins, metal threads and rhinestone embroidery are by Lesage.  The large collar is completely covered in rhinestones.  The great coat has a line  from the 1920′s poem ‘Battierie’  by Jean Cocteau embroidered in a free form style in black silk thread reads:

“ Soleil Moi, Je suis noir dedans et rose dehors, fais la metamorphose”  Jean Cocteau

Translated to English is:

“ Sun, I am black inside and rose outside which is the metamorphosis”  Jean Cocteau

Tributes to Jean Cocteau by Cartier and Yves Saint Laurent in gratitude of his gift to us in poetry and music created original art in perfection, the Trinity Collection and the Evening Ensemble Great Coat.

Janet Deleuse

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Gloria May Swanson visited the House of Cartier in Paris in 1932.  The famous Hollywood actress purchased two of the six newly designed deco style rock crystal bracelets.

Fabricated in platinum the bracelets have 25.35 carats of round and baguette cut diamonds that are set on half discs of rock crystals. Each bracelet is unique with a different size and number of opaque rock crystals.

One bracelet has thirty rock crystal half-disks and the other bracelet is a bit larger with forty seven rock crystal half disks. The invisible coiled platinum springs enables the bracelets to expand and slip on over the wrist.

The sparkle from the diamonds adds to the opaque glow of the white rock crystals.  The overall effect of the bracelets are like ice and snow with the reflection of bright sunshine. Gloria wore the bracelets on stage and off as her ‘signature’ look. She often wore the pair on the same wrist or one on each wrist.

An extravagant and talented actress, Gloria Swanson became one of the highest paid actresses in the late 1920’s to the early 1930’s.  Charlie Chaplin and Cecil B. DeMille were not only her directors but were also her close friends.  She danced the tango with Rudolph Valentino and was the mistress of Joseph Kennedy, Sr.

In 1950 Gloria Swanson starred in the film Sunset Boulevard directed by Billy Wilder. The movie parallels the story of her life as an aging actress.  Gloria chose to wear her own collection of Cartier jewelry in the film.  Playing the character of Norma Desmond, the desperate recluse actress, she decides to go directly to the studio and confront the director.  As she rides to Paramount Studios wrapped in furs in her chauffeured convertible Rolls Royce Gloria Swanson wears both bracelets over long black gloves smoking her cigarette with an air of importance.   This contrast of the pristine white gems on black leather is just magnificent.  Billy Wilder filmed this perfect moment in history depicting Gloria Swanson’s beauty and Cartier’s timeless creativity.

Her beauty, talent, flagrant style and wealth afforded her the luxurious lifestyle she craved and the jewelry from Cartier became part of her legend.

December 19, 2009 is the opening day for “Cartier and America” at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco   Gloria Swanson’s Cartier deco bracelets will be on display for the 100 year celebration of Cartier in the United States.  Happy Birthday Cartier!

Janet Deleuse

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The 1920’s changed women’s lifestyles and attitudes with a loud roar.  Women became athletic and counted their calories.  They cut their hair short, threw off the corsets and wore long slinky dresses.

During the period from 1918-1937 Cartier was the world leader in creating fine jewelry in the Art Deco style. Incorporating intense colors in contrast with black and white the geometric modern jewelry became timeless art. The name Art Deco is derived from the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. The “Cartier & America” exhibit at the Legion of Hono rhas some of the finest Cartier Art Deco jewelry on display.

The color combinations of this huge perfectly green emerald with the intense blue sapphires and stark white diamonds is just remarkable.  I imagine the woman who was fortunate enough to wear this in Paris in 1922 was a beautiful flapper in a long low-waisted dress. The geometric form of the large brooch is exaggerated by the squared cuts of the stones.  The emerald is 38.71 carats with an octagonal step cut and the sapphires are cabochons with pyramid cuts.  I love the detail on the two palm leaf shaped motifs with small rectangular cut sapphires around the perimeter and added tiny round diamonds sprinkled like water droplets on the very edges.  The large emerald has two diamonds set at diagonals in the center makes the brooch so true to the Art Deco form.

Cartier created jewelry for the new fashion with deco styled bandeaus (headbands), long chains with pendants and slim jeweled watches.  Doris Duke, one of the richest women in the U.S. daughter of James B. Duke, founder of the American Tobacco Company.  Nanaline Holt Inman, her mother, commissioned Cartier to design a bandeau with a white natural pearl set in the center of geometric shaped diamond motifs.  The two tear drop shape diamonds at the top of the bandeau adds a ‘royal’ look.  In 1924 Doris wore this modern diamond bandeau for her ‘coming out’ party at age 16.

In 1925 Jaeger, the French watchmaker now known as Jaeger Le Coultre, invented a very small watch mechanism called the “Duoplan.”  Cartier purchased the watch movements in partnership with Jaeger to use them in the finely crafted watch cases.  By using these movements Cartier was able to create small diamond watches with covers that camouflaged the dial. With a jeweled cover over the dial, the watch became a bracelet, an innovative design for the time. The long and slim bracelet watch was a perfect design to wear in the evening with the fashionable sleeveless dresses made in lightweight silk fabrics.  Bracelet watches looked beautiful over long silk gloves or bared arms. This watch  was made in 1927 for Millicent Veronica Wilson, the wife of William Randolph Hearst.  The dial cover has a large emerald cut diamond set in the center of smaller emerald cut diamonds.  At first glance it appears to be one very large rectangular diamond with many facets all reflecting the light–it’s just dazzling.  Emerald cut diamonds are also interspersed on the double paved diamond bracelet with the squared paved diamond clasp the overall style is very deco and elegant.

The“Tutti-Fruitti” jewelry looks exactly what it’s named for, a “fruitbowl.”  Inspired by the design of Indian Mogul royal jewelry, this colorful collection of carved green emeralds, rubies and sapphires are sprinkled with diamonds, glistening like droplets of water on fruit.  In 1935 the heiress to the Singer sewing machine company, Daisy Fellowes, commissioned Cartier to create an Indian style necklace after she saw a Hindu Collar designed for the Indian Maharajah.  Daisy started a trend in Paris and the socialites partied with an “Indian Theme,” dressed in the colorful cabochon cut stones and Indian saris. Apparently, at one of the Parisian parties an Indian elephant was imported to the estate.

Also on display is the Hindu bracelet and double clip brooches made for Mrs. Cole Porter. which could be taken apart and worn separately.  Married to the composer she was said to be one of the most beautiful women from Kentucky

Fred Astaire, the suave and debonair dancer, purchased this Tank Cintree watch from Cartier London in 1929 for his race horse trainer, Felix Leach.  The back of the watch is engraved “Felix from Fred ’29′.”  The 1921 Tank Cintree is a revised deco style from the original tank design.  The elongated rectangular case has a slight curve which fits the wrist comfortably. Inspired by the tanks which liberated France in 1917 the tank watch has been a classic since its creation.  Cartier presented the first Tank watch to General John Perishing, commander of the American Expeditionary Force, as an expression of gratitude at the end of WWI. With a slight modernized change the Tank Cintree was renamed in 1989 the “Tank Americaine.”

Another historically important item which Cartier created is the very innovative time zone clock. The clock was presented to President Franklin D. Roosevelt during WWII as a gift from Pierre Cartier on December 20, 1943.  The five dial clock was designed specifically for his effort in the war and enabled the President to work more efficiently.  President Roosevelt could read the time zones of London-Paris, Berlin-Rome, Tokyo, San Francisco and NewYork at one glance on the beautifully crafted dial. The squared clock with  roman numerals on the perimeter was keeping with the clean linear lines of an art deco style.  The clock is fabricated in black onyx, green nephrite and sterling silver.  The inscription in French on the silver plate reads “The hour of victory in the world.”

Who would expect to see a large whimsical flamingo brooch on display? Only Cartier could create such a life like poised diamond encrusted bird with flaming feathers in ruby, emeralds and sapphires.  Made for the Duchess of Windsor in 1940, her husband the Duke, commissioned Cartier Paris and collaborated with Jean Toussaint for the whimsical design.  Using gems from dismantled line bracelets, the calibrated stones made for a perfect fluffed and colorful tail feathers. The Duchess wore her flaming flamingo brooch and was often photographed in it.

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The Cartier & America collection at the Legion of Honor is an extraordinary exhibit—simply breath taking.  Extraordinary not only for the incredibly beautiful diamonds, gems and impeccable workmanship but also the historical significance Cartier had within the jewelry and fashion industry and around the globe.  Many of the items are commemorative,  for example the celebrations for the end of WWI and WWII and the landing on the moon.

In celebration of one hundred years since Cartier opened the first boutique in the United States at the New York address on Fifth Avenue in 1909 we have the privilege to see some of the finest jewels made for Americans (many of them notable figures in arts and entertainment) between the years of 1902 and 2007.  I had the honor of adding to the audio tour!

Martin Chapman, the curator of European decorative arts and sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, has combined the private jewels (some of which have never been on display) and Cartier’s archival collection together in an amazing exhibition at the Legion of Honor. The jewels couldn’t have been displayed in a more significant venue.   Built in 1915 by the generosity of San Francisco heiress Alma de Bretteville Spreckels, The Palace of the Legion of Honor is a smaller replica of the ‘Palais de la Legion d’Honneur’ located in Paris.

There are two hundred works of jeweled art on display and each one has its own unique story and I’d love to tell them all.  Here is the description and a bit of lore of some of my favorites.

As I entered the dark room with lit cases the warm green glow of a large rare emerald immediately caught my attention.  Set in platinum with white clusters of hundreds of diamonds the necklace practically lit the room.  The reflections of the light from the contrasting colors were vibrant, rarely is an emerald of that size with the pure verdant color ever seen.  Commissioned in 1932 by the American Beatrice Mills, who became the Countess of Granard, Cartier created this platinum and rose cut diamond necklace around the center of a 143.23 carat fine rectangular emerald. This necklace is indicative of the geometric style of jewelry that the London Cartier was producing during the 1930’s.

In the center display case are the Art Deco rock crystal and diamond bracelets made in platinum.  Sold to the actress Gloria Swanson in 1930, the bracelets became her signature look and she wore them in her last film. Timeless in style, one could easily slip on these bracelets today.

On the cover of the catalog is the famous emerald and diamond shoulder brooch.  The photo of the brooch is impressive, but when you see it up close and personal it’s truly an incredible jewel.  Larger than the photo depicts, this intricately and complex piece is designed to resemble a buckle with paved eight hundred round diamonds, it measures eight inches in length.  The large carved cabochon emeralds drop from white diamond encrusted platinum fluted shaped holders and rectangular caliber cut emeralds.  The circle of black enamel around the top of each emerald creates a subtle contrast to the white diamonds.  The 250 carats of carved Indian emeralds date to the seventeenth century Mughal period.  This type of engraving is very difficult because emeralds are a delicate and break easily.  The large flat center emerald has a later date inscription written in Farsi (Persian).  The jeweled piece was originally a pendant on a strand of emeralds which was sold to Mr. Williams in 1914 at the Cartier London for the enormous amount of  L10,000.00. Marjorie Merriweather Post, the American heiress to the cereal company and known as one of the richest women in America, purchased it in 1928 and had it converted into the brooch at Cartier NewYork. She wore the brooch in her portrait with her young daughter Nedenia painted by Giulio de Blaas.  More than just jewelry, this art is on permanent display at the Hillwood Museum in Washington, D.C..

The “Star of South Africa” is one of the most historically important diamonds ever set in jewelry.  It was discovered in 1869 and created the “diamond rush.”

It’s a dream come true for all the princesses when you enter the room with eleven diamond tiaras to choose from–and two gorgeous diamond bandeaus!  Prior to WWI  wealthy Americans broke the rules and began wearing diamond tiaras which were originally created to be worn only for the royal families.  Mrs. Richard Townsend of Washington D.C., (coal and railroad money) was truly a queen at heart, she wore this incredible tiara with large diamonds made in platinum. In 1905 she also added this lacey diamond choker necklace and a ‘grand devant de corsage’ breast ornament of entwined roses and lilies, all in the style of Louis XVI.  If all these diamonds were worn at the same time, who could have possibly out sparkled her at the Paris Opera House?

Well possibly our own San Franciscan, Mrs. William K.Vanderbuilt, a tall beautiful woman who wore diamond bracelets, rings and necklacesto the diamond ensemble of tiaras, necklaces and stomachers.

One of the most unique tiaras is a crown of ‘waves of diamonds’ which were created to match the exact waves in the hair of Lila Vanderbuilt Sloane.  Designed in 1902 made in platinum and fine diamonds the style is modern and timeless—a girl could wear it today—providing of course she has the same wavy hair!

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One of a kind, designed by Janet Deleuse

Aqua & Diamond pendant and earrings designed by Janet Deleuse

Natural Aquamarines precision cut in Germany by August Mayer

fine quality vs, e-f, ideal cut Diamonds

18k white gold, one of a kind

$18,750.00

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The “Star of South Africa” diamond was discovered in 1869 and started ‘diamond fever’ throughout the world. The 47.69 carat pear shaped diamond was set into a pendant brooch with oval and round old mine cut diamonds in a lily of the valley motif.

The brooch designed by Pierre Cartier at the House of Cartier in New York  in 1910 for the American Industrialist J.P. Morgan is currently in this original setting.

The famous diamond is said to have been acquired from a young herdsman on the Zendfontein farm on the Orange River in South Africa.  The herdsman sold the diamond in exchange for five hundred sheep, ten oxen and a horse. Louis Hond, the French diamond cutter cut the pear shape from the rough diamond and sold it to the Countess of Dudley. The countess had the stone ‘baptized’ and mounted it in a tiara which she wore frequently.

The diamond was then purchased by J. P. Morgan.  The famous diamond remains in the current Cartier design.  This historic diamond was sold by Christie’s in Geneva in 1971.

The “Star of South Africa” is part of Cartier’s archival heritage and will be on display at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco, December 19th – April 18th 2010.  Hear my comments about various pieces in the Cartier collection on the museum’s audio tour!

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