Somewhere over the Clayoquot Sound, I exhaled deeply and succumbed to the beauty that is Vancouver Island.  Flying from Victoria to Tofino by scenic float plane, I had the pleasure of sitting in the co-pilot seat next to our deceptively baby-faced pilot Josh.  www.tofinoair.ca

I would be traveling for the next few days with a small group of travel professionals on a trip organized by Beverly Booth who was representing “Special Places”, a collection of properties located throughout the island. Even the fact that I would not be reunited with my checked luggage, (which had remained in San Francisco), until 1/2 way through our trip would not mar my enjoyment of this destination.

Tofino is a small fishing town in Ucluelet, British Columbia, on the rugged west coast of the island. Our first stop was at the bakery where I was introduced to the local confection aptly named a Tofino bar. I can’t tell you of what it was made because it disappeared before I could perform an in-depth analysis, but it was, in a word, yummy. 

While the rest of the group headed over to The Eagle Aerie Gallery, I went in search of appropriate clothing for our boat trip the next day.  Since I’ve had limited success finding a pair of jeans to fit me anywhere in the state of California, I didn’t hold out much hope of discovering a pair in Tofino, and i was correct.  Fortunately, organic cotton and hemp yoga pants were more forgiving, and I could now rejoin the others at the gallery to appreciate the work of local artist Roy Henry Vickers.

Next stop: The Wickaninnnish Inn for a reception with several of the other Special Places properties sales representatives who in some cases were the owners/managers.  Tonight’s vendors were from the northern part of Vancouver Island.  Some of the resorts are best reached by float plane or helicopter, and as I’d discovered, this is a beautiful way to appreciate the vistas of densely forested terrain, irregular coastline, lakes, rivers and mountains. Once you arrive at your resort of choice, you might choose between a variety of activities such as fishing (sea salt water or fly?) golf, ocean kayaking, surfing, whale watching or, for the less adventurous, a spa treatment or a good book by a warm fire.

Our dinner at Wickaninnish was a tasting menu comprised of several small plates using local ingredients that were not only fresh and beautifully presented, but creative and scrumptious.  Charles McDiarmid, Managing Director, regaled us with stories of the Ucluelet area and the history and evolution of the Inn. Wickaninnnish Inn is a member of Relais & Chateaux. The Point restaurant overlooks the ruggedly dramatic shoreline, a perfect place for storm watching!

After dinner we checked into our accommodations for the night at Black Rock Oceanfront Resort.  Although already dark, I could envision the view to which I’d awaken as I listened to the waves breaking on the rocky headlands.  Our beautiful studio and one bedrooms suites had separate deep soaking tubs, rain-shower heads, kitchenettes (stocked with our boxed breakfast for the next morning) and flat screen t.v.s and complimentary wireless Internet.

In the morning we enjoyed a brief walk along the Wild Pacific Trail before heading to Long Beach, sight of the 2nd annual Surfing Competition.  Unfortunately, though the plan was to watch a bit of the last day, the competition had wrapped up early the day before.  Still, having this long stretch of beach almost to ourselves was a little slice of heaven.

We arrived back in Tofino where we were to meet James, our Remote Passages guide, who took us out in a open-air vessel for a Coastal Bear/Wildlife Watch.  90% of people who venture out on this experience see bears and their cubs on the beaches; alas, we fell into the 10% that did not.  We did, however, see eagles, seals and shore birds and we looked fabulous in our red flotation jumpsuits, which also kept us warm during the sunny yet chilly excursion. www.remotepassages.com

After lunch in Tofino we crossed the island in our comfortable National Car Rental minibus to our destination in the Parksville area for the night. More beautiful lakes & parks – is there no end? We were running a bit behind and were given a choice of going directly to our hotel or making a short stop at Coombs Market, an eclectic collection of shops and markets which, happily, all agreed was a must. Here, another local treat known as a “Bee Sting” was sampled .. creamy, gooey goodness.

We also had suites at The Beach Club Resort, this time I had a full beach and boardwalk view. At low tide people & their dogs shared the beach with geese and other feathered friends.

Tonight’s reception and dinner was hosted by Special Places mid-island partners at Tigh-Na-Mara Resort Spa & Conference Center. I can highly recommend the food …we had a lovely meal in the Cedar Room.

Later, when we returned to our hotel, I was pleased to see that my luggage had finally made its way to my room, but too tired after a long day, I went to sleep without spending too much time with it.

After a bountiful breakfast at The Beach Club, we drove to WildPlay Element Park for a couple of hours of pushing our boundaries in what is both adventurous play and team building exercises amongst the trees.  More than zip lining, although there is that, too,  the participants have obstacle courses to navigate while increasing their distances above the ground.

Drinks had been earned (and appreciated and consumed !) when we arrived at our next Special Place, Merridale Estate Cidery, where we had (hard) cider tastings during our rustic and delicious lunch of homemade soups and sandwiches.

Tours of the mill are offered, and the gift shop sells other goods produced on the farm, in addition to the cider which is available in several different varieties.

Officially exhausted, we departed for the Hotel Grand Pacific in Victoria where we were told we had 3 full hours on our own to spend as we wished: shopping, spaing, napping were all possibilities.  I watched the Giants / Philly’s game and became reacquainted with my luggage.

We had a 20 minute drive to our final reception dinner at Brentwood Bay Lodge, which was hosted by the south island Special Places partners.  This beautiful and unique boutique property is Victoria’s only five star oceanfront hotel resort and spa. We enjoyed dinner at its wonderful Seagrill restaurant with some of the best and freshest seafood – especially the sashimi from its sushi bar – that I’ve ever tasted.
Located on a Marina, boat tours are available from here to Butchart Gardens
The gorgeous woods used in the construction lend a great deal of warmth to the property.  The comfortable (and quite romantically lit) suite we were able to see had beautiful linens, a jetted soaking tub and a fireplace.  Sigh! 

After dinner,  (and off the clock) we enjoyed a nightcap at The Bengal Bar at the Fairmont Empress Hotel.

We had a tour of the Hotel Grand Pacific in the morning.  From the owners’ suite we could view the magnificent (The Legislature Buildings, the harbor, the mountains), as well as the small (ducks and the duckpond that have become part of the Grand Pacific “family”).  The Grand Pacific has a full fitness center and a spa and a great location on the harbor.

We then departed for Abigail’s for another site tour followed by a most fabulous gourmet breakfast. (they kept my cocoa topped off until I yelled “uncle!”)

Nick Saklas, GM and son of the owner, showed us a few rooms while charming us with his stories about the hotel.  Only a few blocks walk from the harbor and the center of town, Abigail’s is a romantic and unique bed and breakfast Hotel. 

It was time to say goodbye to our wonderful hosts, and then Beverly Booth and our “driver” Federico Angel of Angel Destination Management, took us to the Victoria airport from where we departed.  Federico operates tour programs out of the city of Vancouver throughout B.C., and we were blessed to have this “Angel” with us on our most wonderful familiarization tour of heavenly Vancouver Island.

Special Places, indeed.

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It was time to explore the Caribbean in a new way, with a new ship and to test if large could still be ‘intimate!’ I came away quite impressed with not only the quality and sincerity of the service aboard, but how such a big ship (120,000 tonnes) can be designed to let all aboard enjoy quiet as desired, have fun when wished and bring us to our Caribbean destinations with ease.

The Itinerary: Miami to Grand Cayman, Cozumel & Costa Riviera Maya, Mexico plus Roatán, Honduras before returning to Miami.

Grand Cayman: a limestone island which is in-the-main relatively flat but has fantastic dive and snorkeling spots. As a duty-free and tax-free island, it is quite prosperous and its citizens graciously share their island with visitors from the ship. As we traveled just before Christmas, the island had lots of cheerful decorations and on board the ship, the pastry chef-team had constructed a giant gingerbread village to match the charms of the houses we saw in George Town on the island.

Cozumel: We were able to either walk into town, take taxis, scooters or mini-buses to various sites around the island. In justt about 30 ferry-minutes from the San Pedro dock you could reach Yucatan’s town of Playa del Carmen and some guests chose to go in order to explore various Mayan sites or just shop, lunch or relax in town. Most stayed on Cozumel and since the water conditions were a bit challenging due to a windy day, most meandered in town to shop, to take a horse & buggy ride, maybe visit the large catheral or relax in the warm atmosphere of the island.

Costa Riviera Maya: This part of coastal Yucatan is soon to be more extensively developed for resort and vacation villa rentals; right now it retains its sense of village Mexico with small shops, inns and beach adventure-providers offering low-key but welcoming watersport adventures. . As Mexico develops this shoreline community over the next few years, it is preparing larger roads and ship dock facilities. We took a bicycle tour and sea-kayaked in the lovely waters which were warm and inviting.

Roatán Island, Honduras: Our last stop was the island justly famed for outstanding reefs and superb scuba/snorkeling. We did a hike up the mountainside to see a larger view of the area. In the distance, the sharply pointed peaks of the volcanoes which form the Central American spine were purple-blue while our island was deeply green and covered with lush trees and plants. Life here on Roatán is changing from English-speaking to Spanish-speaking as the former British Honduras is now independent Honduras — a Spanish-Caribbean culture.

Life aboard Ship

Here Celebrity shone with a variety of activities on board, staffing at top level, and a range of options for every taste. The Corning Museum of Glass on top deck did demonstrations from time to time during the cruise (seats were located just in front of the glass-blowing kilns and by the genuine grass lawn area where guests could lawn-bowl, play croquet or just relax); you could quietly snooze on Solstice Deck 16 forward or hang around the pool to listen to soft music or the live bands which played in the afternoon for an hour or so. Dining venues with speciality restaurants ranged from the amazingly fun IPad-menu temptations of QSINE to a quick crepe-tasting at the Café just above the main lobby area. Staffing was always present to answer questions, direct you if you got lost (hard to do on this ship where despite its size as signage of where you were could not have been clearer), and the spa services were top quality along with the California organic-style foods served breakfast and lunch at the excellent Aqua Spa Café. The main dining room had an amazing ‘tower of wine’ and the ship boasts 23 sommeliers who were there to suggest wine pairings or just offer a glass of wine with your meal.

The ship built in Germany was extremely well-made with attention to detail in all parts of the ship — this guaranteed a comfortable stay on board. Artworks on all the stairwells, along the hallways, in nooks, crannies and unexpected corners, lent a sense of excitement and interest as you passed from one place to another. So many venues — nightclub, theatres, the Internet Center, the library, the back deck or one of the many dining outlets — and the Central Atrium was a design treat. Open to natural light up top, but with varied staircases and different design access-points, it allowed you constantly changing vistas and views. Glass elevators took you quickly up or down to your desired level. The ship could not be faulted and the latest high-tech machinery guaranteed a smooth ride despite some rough waves during a couple of the days.

All in all — this was a cruise to remember.

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What an amazing construct — the Panama Canal … almost up to 100 years old and STILL going strong.

I just returned from a marvelous adventure aboard the PRINCE ALBERT II  sailing 03-13 Oct 2010.    She is the luxury Adventure Ship of the SILVERSEA CRUISES family … specializing in cruises of Arctic, Antarctic, Northern Norwegian waters, along with sailings along South America and the shores of Africa.   With Silversea Cruises you are guaranteed the very best of shipboard service, fine wines, excellence in spa services and a full compliment of willing and top professional staff and yet   — with the Prince Albert II — it is a  unique opportunity to explore yourself off-ship on Zodiacs with highly-skilled educated guides and lecturers.  Is this what they call soft adventure?

We sailed from La Romana, Dominican Republic via Curaçao, on to the San Blas Islands east of Panama, across Panama through the Canal, to the gulf off Darien Jungle, on to Isla Coiba and along the coast of Costa Rica.   After a day visiting Curaçao, we had two days at sea with a choice of lectures about the places we were about to experience.  The lecturers were a talented multi-country team of outstanding specialists — a PhD in marine biology with a 2nd degree in Veterinarian Science from Berlin, two ornithologists -one Canadian, one from Germany-, a botanist from Austria, another marine biologist from the US but resident in Australia, a Canadian ethno-archaeologist, a geologist from Colombia along with 3 team leaders for Zodiac Expeditions .. one from Germany and two from South Africa-the Netherlands respectively.    We had aboard a former NASA engineer who as a Panama Canal specialist and with deep knowledge of astronomy added an extra filip to our time on board.

Expedition cruising is for those of us who love to learn, like to explore using Zodiacs and LOVE off-ship adventures.  All excursions are part of the cruise package.  One can return any time to our mother-ship to enjoy fine dining, lunch alfresco on the deck or relax in our cabins.  [Lectures can be viewed on the television screens in the cabins.]  Room service in suites is by your butler team; the regular spacious cabins have a devoted steward team to cater to all your wishes.

Our guest-list had 17 nationalities and we had a total of 29 nations represented on board in total.  Our captain and assistant-captain were both from Finland and made a balanced and delightful team.  As we had a large contingent of guests on board from Germany, Switzerland, Finland and the UK, the additional German-English speaking guides were added so that all guests could chose to attend lectures in languages which were their choice.  Many of us switched just for fun and to practice.   It was a marvelous international sailing and with only 100 guests on board and 110 staff, it was a well-cared-for group of travelers.

The Transit of the Panama Canal:   this journey is unique and fascinating.  Our Panama Canal host has transited over 55 times .  He said “each time is special; each trip different.”   Must be; he’s done it pretty often!  From Colón-side (west Atlantic-Caribbean entry) to exit at Panama City-side (east Pacific side) passing through the locks, watching the Canal team handling ships like ours (small at 6,000 tonnes) to the huge Panamac ships, was impressive.   A daily drill of excellence   — the Canal handles about 40 ships each day.   The Panamac behemoths rise easily up one ladder-lock a step at a time to the higher elevations of Gatun Lake and then descend again in slow progressions back to the Pacific Ocean’s level …absolutely marvelous.

Our two visits to Panamanian tribespeople — Kuna Yala on San Blas and the Embera peoples in the Darien Jungle were totally different experiences.  San Blas Islands lie only a meter above sea level and are coral atop a rock base.  The Kuna people’s faces show an ancient lineage and their beautiful hand-made ‘mola’ embroideries are justly famous.

On our 2-hour journey to visit the Embera of the Darien Jungle of Panama, we appreciated their lush surroundings as we bird-watched, listened to squawks, chirps, whistles, calls and sounds of the wildlife surrounding us as we moved upriver.  The Embera shared and showed us their life lived in mainly traditional ways.  Small signs of helpful technologies to ease some of their chores were seen, but in the main, the old ways of life maintain.  [Solar panals operate limited electricity here and there; a phone booth stands quietly in the midst of the open-sided, thatched-hut community buildings in case of need.  They gave us insight into how they value their heritage and yet accede to some modernity albeit always in harmony with the environment.

Moving north through Panama towards Costa Rica, we spent a day at a UNESCO world heritage island site – Isla Coiba – hiking in the jungle and finishing the day snorkeling on one of the prettiest small islands I have seen — just across the bay.  The next day in Costa Rica we visited two spots where Americans have come to live and respect the natural beauty of the area but have honored their new home by creating a garden of native plants in one place and an animal sanctuary in another.   And then, suddenly, our 10-day cruise was at an end in Punta Caldera, Costa Rice.  Happy-sad farewells and exchanges of emails left us knowing …

it was  “sic Goria transit…”     “there passes the glory…”

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An International Women’s Forum Conference enticed us to Ecuador in May 2010.  The conference was in Guayaquil, Ecuador, and pre conference tours, arranged by Casto Travel, took us to Quito, Otavalo and the Highlands, the Amazon Jungle, and the Galapagos Islands.  We found you can still get a very good value for the U.S. dollar in South America.

Rich in history, Quito, the second highest capital city in the world situated at some 9,300 feet above sea level, is one of the oldest and best preserved cities in the Americas.  Due to the city’s preservation of its blended past, UNESCO declared Quito one of the “world’s cultural heritage sites” in 1978.  We stayed at Hotel Patio Andaluz, a National Monument originally built in 1534, located within easy walking distance of Old Town Quito’s Main Square.  Take a drive north to the Middle of the World, where you will be able to straddle both hemispheres at once. 

In the Imbabura Province you can explore the colorful artisan’s market of Otavalo.  In addition to the textile and craft market, there is a fruit and vegetable market too.  By exploring surrounding villages you are able to see the ancient weaving techniques that are still used by the famous Otavalo artisans.  Shopping opportunities abound!  In addition, this region is one of high volcanic mountains and beautiful crater lakes.  First constructed in 1790, we stayed at Hacienda Pinsaqui, a uniquely restored colonial hacienda which was originally a textile workshop.  We also visited Hacienda La Compania de Jesus with its extraordinary, state of the art rose plantation.

Then there’s the Amazon jungle.  We stayed at the Sacha Lodge, located within a 5,000-acre private ecological reserve, where a typical day begins at sunrise or earlier, in order to take advantage of the cool morning hours when the rainforest’s animals are most active.  Climbing to the top of a three tower canopy enabled us see above the forest’s treetops and experience some incredible birdwatching.  We paddled dugout canoes along the creeks, spotting animals and admiring orchids, bromeliads and palm trees.  Black caiman alligators thrive in the lake at the entrance to the Lodge.  A highlight was canoeing within two feet of a nine foot caiman.  Yikes!!!!!!  What an exhilarating experience.

Onto the the Galapagos Islands where you come as close as humanly possible to an awesome array of wildlife.  Galapagos is one of the most important national parks on earth and was declared a World Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO.   Snorkel with sea lions and look into the eye of a century-old giant tortoise.  Galapagos is truly a living museum. We opted to be land based, staying at the Finch Bay Eco Hotel on Santa Cruz Island, exploring the islands on one of its 60 foot yachts.

We ended our tour in Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city.  Malecon 2000 is the city’s attractive riverside walk, accompanied by excellent museums, top-notch restaurants, hotels and bars.  Our trip had a fiery finish!  The Tungurahua volcano erupted on the last day of the International Women’s Forum Conference, closing the airports.  Of course, Casto Travel came to the rescue, arranging a vanpool to Quito, hotel accommodations, and revised flights back to the U.S.A.  Casto Travel personnel are THE BEST!

Happy travels, Nannette and Susie
San Francisco Bay Area

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New York & New Haven:   I had not visited this part of the East Coast in many a year and it was a perfect Spring almost summer-like with temperatures in the mid-80’s despite the burgeoning spring flower show on offer.  New York has only gotten better since last I visited.  Pulsing with energy as always but full of a sense of comfort, purpose and mere enjoyment as people moved to work, to play and to find spots of sunshine to absorb after a long, wet and cold winter.
 
I came to New York to meet very close Swedish friends, one of whom was going to give a talk at Yale University in New Haven.  A former journalist and newspaper editor in Sweden, his serious and in-depth tomes written after retirement have been recognized and I wanted to be there to hear his speech.  They flew in from Europe; I did the overnight from San Francisco.  With very little time in the City of New York we made the most of it– walking in Central Park, watching the spring profusion of budding trees and blossoming shrubs/flowers, visiting the amazing Apple Store at Columbus Circle (pulsing with frenzied new IPad purchasers), strolling Fifth Avenue as well as Rockefeller Center all the time checking out the many iconic buildings in varying architectural styles.   Dining in New York is legend — you can grab a quick snack at kosher hot dog stands or halal meat & rice street carts or retreat to full-service elegant dining spots.  We chose a bistro-style European café serving freshly prepared and organically grown meals.
 
The next day after a wonderful visit to the American Folk Art Museum (a treasure located next to the almost over-loved Museum of Modern Art) we headed to Grand Central Station and our Metro-North Train ride to New Haven.   New Haven is a town living with Yale University at its core… the original Town Green of old New Haven is the entry point to the extensive campus, full of impressive stone buildings housing dining commons, residential accommodations for the students,  massive libraries (including the famed Beinecke Library of rare books), lecture halls, music auditoria, and the accoutrements of life on campus.  Young people reading books and chatting on the commons lawns exemplifying those participating in real learning but softened by the spring in this buffered world of academia.  Surrounding the campus buildings were restaurants, large book stores, cafés, and a variety of businesses catering to their young clientele.
 
Returning to New York after the lecture, we overnighted at the classic Iroquois Hotel, an island of calm in the busy city, with excellent services and luxurious but understated ambience.  Next morning we headed back to California. 
 
The following weekend, it was off to Yosemite Valley which I had not seen in over 20 years!!  Such magnificence and vistas yet a sense of dignified calm and quietude predominated during our visit.  The Valley is full of people happy, relaxed and overjoyed with the dramatic views, overflowing waterfalls and animal life unafraid of those of us who have come to share the space with them.  We had an extra-ordinary two April days … warm daytime temperatures (it had just snowed 3 days prior), leaves emerging from stalks and stems, flowers showing awakening colors and scrawky sounds from the Steller’s Jay in its flashing blue coat, dark grey crest with two bright blue bars of color like Vishnu stripes on their foreheads.  The various waterfalls were bountifully full of water spilling over the lofty heights dropping in wide sprays of white foam and shifting spray paths towards the valley floor.  The temperatures at night were cold enough to cause ice patterns of frozen water against the granite walls in the early morning light.
 
In a modern world we can find outselves in the urban energy of a major American city one day, wending our way through the greenswards of an academic surround or hours later (OK — a day or so later) experiencing the still-preserved beauties of nature in one of the U.S.A.’s most historic and superb natural environments.   Quite something else!!

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We departed Feb 13th to spend the 1st 6 nights in Peru—up in the Andean country.  Arrived in Cuzco and went directly to the Sacred Valley—stayed 3 nights at Casa Andina–a wonderful hotel in the Urubamba Valley that is restful and perfect for getting acclimated to the altitude.

Machu Pichu was closed but it turned out to be a blessing in disguise.  We were able to see many of the Inca and Pre-Inca sights that are not usually shown to tourists on a “short tour” of Cuzco and its surroundings.  In fact all six of us agreed that we didn’t miss not going to Machu Pichu.  We visited Ollyantantambo (more impressive than Machu Pichu I think), Moray, and Pisac.  We visited the women’s weaving cooperative, founded and run by Nilda—an extraordinary woman, who has restored the ancient Inca weaving styles and patterns, had lunch in a private hacienda (Huayocari)—fantastic old hacienda dating back to the 1500’s, had a private cooking lesson and visit to the local market in Urumbamba by Chef Roger Behar, visited local craft markets and learned so much about Inca and pre Inca culture from our fabulous guide Edgar Medevil (an archeologist by training and guides during the rainy season).  Then to Cuzco and the wonderful sites of Sacsayhuamam, Pikillacta (a pre Inca city dating back to 600AD—buried for centuries), and  Tipon  as well as all the great sites in Cuzco.  Stayed at the Monastario –athe best hotel in the Andean area including all of Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia.  And the food—the best.  We never had a bad or even mediocre meal.  We ate at different restaurants every day at lunch and dinner.  I do have a list.

Then on to the Galapagos on the Explorer II –a wonderful ship that I highly recommend.  A very professional staff,  great naturalists, good lectures, and very good food.  Every cabin is a Jr. Suite, with plenty of room, good lighting, nice amenities.  2 excursions per day plus snorkeling at least once a day.  We were lucky most of the time with good weather.  Only had to slosh through muck and rocks one day –on North Seymour.  We couldn’t get over the lack of fear of all the animals, reptiles.  Hard not to pet them as you walked within a few inches of them—almost stepped on a few iguanas and a baby sea lion—who was on the steps of our landing as we docked on an island.

Then to Quito.  We stayed one night at the Casa Vieja—NOT recommended –but changed to the Hilton Colon—excellent hotel in a perfect location for walking around. (tho not recommended to walk alone or at night in Quito). We had a tour of the old city, went into the Presidential Palace to see a special guard graduation program.

We spent 2 days in the Otavalo area –staying at the Hacienda Cusin (excellent), whose owner has an extraordinary collection of old Inca textiles and art. The Otavalenos have become successful and prosperous with their talents. Each community in this area is known for one or another trade or art forms.  We visited workshops of bread-doll factory,  2 different weavers,  wood carvers. Spent an hour or so at the Otavalo market—in the afternoon when the tourists have left.  The Big Market days are Wednesday and Saturday, when the “Indiginous people” come in from miles around with their arts and crafts.  Went to weavers” homes,  hat makers’ homes, small  family run “biscuit” makers, “dough” toys makers, etc.

And Friday, thanks to our terrific guide, Edison and his connections,  he took us to one of the largest rose plantations to see their operation, and then have lunch at the Hacienda of the owners–La Compania de Jesus.  What a special treat and the best meal we had in Ecuador  (the food is not as good as in Peru).  Unfortunately, the trip had come to an end and we all departed –sad to leave so soon.

Eco-adventures uses the best tour companies in both countries –Setours in Peru and Metropolitan in Ecuador.  I spoke to many guides, hotel people, etc (in Spanish) to find out about the best companies—and these names came up all the time at the top of the list.

I have no criticisms of anything on the trip.  Our guides were excellent, knowledgeable and flexible. –we did change the itinerary as we went along to fulfill the requests of some of us in the group, or to add special activities.

I only regret that I didn’t have more time to explore these area.  But I will be back!

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Aaaahh, Puerto Vallarta, images of palm trees, beaches, tropical drinks and mountain scenes conjure up in my mind. Its Logan, “The Sea, The Town, The Mountain”, pretty much sums it up. No other popular touristy beach town in Mexico offers the backdrops that Puerto Vallarta does. The town faces Bahia de Banderas (Banderas Bay) and behind it are the beautiful Sierra Madre Mountains. For those who enjoy romance, seclusion, yet close enough to population, and places to party at night, Puerto Vallarta is one great place to visit. It’s not for nothing that Richard Burton’s, The Night of the Iguana, chose such a beautiful location to be filmed in. PV (Puerto Vallarta) still maintains that small town atmosphere with its cobblestone streets, the main plaza in the center of town and the church, Templo Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe.

Puerto Vallarta started becoming a resort town in the 1960’s and since then it has grown into a town of nearly 350,000 people. Most are locals but many are retirees and anyone who decided to visit it often enough to purchase a condominium there. This growth has prompted the development of many hotels and condominiums. The area of newer development is called Nuevo Vallarta, which is mainly a hotel zone. So if you like to be in the middle of all the action, day and night, than staying in a hotel in Nuevo Vallarta is the place for you; many touristy shops and restaurants are located here. However, there are other locations such as Zona Hotelera and Zona Marina that offer beautiful hotel accommodations as well.

In Puerto Vallarta the tourist can enjoy everything under the sun including golfing, whale watching, sport fishing and ecotourism. Surfers from all over the world have even found a place to surf in the northern town of Sayulita, about 25 miles north of PV. However, for off the beaten path beaches you may want to take a water taxi ride to the small fishing town of either Quimixto or Yelapa. To get to these towns you will need to get to the suburb called Boca de Tomatlan, reached by taking the Barra de Navidad road or carretera, traveling south of Puerto Vallarta; getting to the fishing towns could be on either taxi or public bus. Once there, you will find a few small water taxis (basically small fishing boats) that will transport you to one of the three small fishing villages. The first stop is Las Animas, next is Quimixto, and the final one is Yelapa. If agreed, the water taxi will drop you off where you wish in the morning and will come back for you at a predetermined hour in the afternoon. Quimixto is the most recommendable of the three to visit; but going early is the best bet to avoid crowds. In Quimixto you will find a hiking trail leading to a beautiful water fall; this area is wonderful for hiking.

A few hotels, especially those located in the southern parts of Vallarta such as in Conchas Chinas and Mismaloya offer their own private beach, such as Dreams Resort and Spa. However, there are many alternate hotel options, for an array of budgets, with a short distance to the beaches in that area. This area is surrounded by more tropical greenery and you will also find eco adventures such as canopy tours.

On the opposite end, the Northern side is what many refer to as the Riviera Nayarit (Nayarit is the state bordering north of Jalisco, which is the state Puerto Vallarta is in), but the official name is Punta Mita. Punta Mita is also a beautiful location, without the closeness of the mountains as found in the south, but a beautiful area with newer developments. One of these new developments is the exclusive and luxurious Four Seasons Hotel; located about 42 km from Puerto Vallarta airport.

Puerto Vallarta has everything a beach town can offer; beach, nightlife, small town ambiance, archeological site (Ixtapa) and it has been transformed into a creative and artistic Mecca. Many talented retirees and professional artists have made this town their home. This makes Puerto Vallarta a great place to view art displays as well theatrical events. It’s a good idea to always check with your hotel concierge or front desk for information on performances during your stay.   In the evenings one can enjoy anything from a loud, fun atmosphere of the restaurant bars found on the Malecon, to a quieter seafood dinner , to a possible art exhibition, whether it be performed or displayed.

Puerto Vallarta is a very unique destination in Mexico. Many tourists are repeat tourists for many reasons and the best part is that the place maintains its beauty and charm. So whether you travel alone, with your loved one or your whole family I am certain that Puerto Vallarta will not disappoint.

See you in PV and Happy Travels!

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It was my lucky day to be chosen to go on board the Queen Victoria while it was docked in San Francisco. I only had a brief time on board, but during that time I imagined what it would be like to experience an around the world cruise and I came to the conclusion that on the Queen Victoria it would be a dream of a lifetime. As I entered the ship the first thing I noticed was the ships excellent condition. An Italian designer who chose soft elegant colors designed the interior. The atmosphere is retro but with an updated elegant feel. It looked as though the carpet and all of the interior walls were just installed that morning.

We strolled around the ship looking at various sites including:

The Winter Garden, a lovely, light-filled indoor/outdoor poolside setting with a retractable glass ceiling was lovely.  I could only imagine sitting in the Winter Garden with a good book in hand and having a glass of champagne.  There are two swimming pools on board. One of the pools is located in the back of the ship perfect for sunbathing and enjoying a view of the ocean. Queens and Princess Grill dining.  The restaurants are identical.  Elegant surroundings, lovely ocean views, expansive decks and a private lounge for cocktails and meeting friends.   A courtyard connects both restaurants. Queen and Princess Grill passengers can mingle with each other and enjoy el fresco dining in the lovely Tuscan-inspired setting of The Courtyard. The Queens Room (ballroom) is elegantly appointed and is the perfect setting for the Royal Nights themed balls. Hemispheres with its 270-degree ocean view and circular skylight for stargazing was beautiful.  There is a special designated area for around the world passengers to meet and socialize. I’ve seen photos of the Library but it is even better then portrayed in the photos.  Two storeys of rich polished woods linked with the spiral staircase.  We were told that there are nearly 6,000 titles available to the passengers. The Royal Spa has a large hydro-pool and heated lounge chairs. The fitness center is located at the front of the ship and all of the treadmills face out to the sea. The Royal Court TheatrePassengers can reserve a box for $25.00 per person evokes the grand theatres of London’s West End, and offers the first private boxes of any theatre at sea and unobstructed sightlines.  Thirty minutes prior to the production there is a private lounge where they will be served champagne and dessert. A few minutes before Showtime a Cunard White Star escort takes them to their private box where they will enjoy champagne, truffles and an entertaining production.  This special event cannot be reserved until the passengers are on board.  Best to reserve as soon as you get on the ship. It is a popular event. I had lunch in Britannia Restaurant.  The food was quite good and the service excellent.  It is a two-storey venue and has an elegant and intimate atmosphere.  We had a peek at Todd English’s restaurant and I would feel confident to recommend it for a special evening. Cost for Todd English is $20.00pp for lunch and $30.00pp for dinner. A lunch at the Golden Lion Pub of fish and chips is complimentary ConneXions Internet Centre had an adequate amount of computers setup in private cubicles.  2 hours is $47.95, 4 hours is $89.95 and 8 hours is $167.95.

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AMERICANS LOVE London for a lot of reasons, aside from what we laughingly say about Londoners speaking almost understandable English. It’s a city with endless diversified pleasures for all tastes.

In the summertime it’s a great place to join with people from all over the world. I spent a week there last summer savoring the scene, before taking a Princess cruise around the British Isles.

Dining, drinking or walking the summer streets in London is almost like being everywhere else at the same time. The joyful chatter coming from visiting tourists is a cacophony of up to 80 different languages and it’s mostly happy talk. The attraction of London is universal.

Being in London is an immersion in culture, entertainment, shopping, dining or simply pub crawling. The London pubs are so crowded on weekend evenings, it’s standing room only extending out on the sidewalks. Soho is the place to see and be seen. Londoners are beer drinkers and the suds flow freely from taps not bottles. Any pub will have an assortment of up to a dozen or more different beers and ales to pull.

Daytime in London is a totally different scene, whether it’s upscale shopping at the world’s greatest department store, Harrods, or mixing with the lower end at Camden Lock. There are thousands of stalls at Camden Lock selling everything from far-out clothing and jewelry to trendy and more traditional things. For people watching it’s hard to beat this outdoor circus atmosphere.

Not to be missed is the London theater scene, better than New York’s Broadway for a number of reasons. London theaters are many, and mostly on the small side. No matter where you sit to watch a performance you feel more intimately involved because you are closer to the stage. And the cost of admission usually is less.

Except for the few truly hit shows, which are sold out well in advance, half-price tickets are the rule rather than the exception. In Leicester Square the city operates a booth selling tickets for many of that day’s matinee and evening performances at half price. Private ticket agents with stalls and offices in the surrounding streets also offer bargain-priced tickets for shows that may not be available at the city booth, and you can get tickets there for future performances.

One way for an economical theater evening is to purchase a package deal, dinner and the theater at cut-rate price for both. Numerous ads for this are available by looking for “London theater-dinner package” on Google.

London is a shopper’s paradise. If its toys you’re after, London has the greatest toy store in the world, Hamley’s. This store on Regent Street, near Oxford Street, is 249 years old with five floors of extensive displays of things to amuse and delight youngsters. It’s more than just displaying toys. It includes demonstrations. Hamley’s employs 50 young people to show you what you can’t live without once you see what it can do.

For a unique dining experience my favorite is an off-beat crypt in St. Martin in the Fields Church, at Trafalgar Square. The crypt floor consists of well-trodden tombstones of historic church figures. It’s a huge room with open seating tables. There is a self-service, cafeteria-style section serving both hot and cold dishes, all delightfully prepared. But the piece de resistance is a superb bread pudding, the like of which is unmatched even in the city’s high-priced restaurants.

London can be expensive for a visitor. The exchange rate with the pound hasn’t been good for the dollar lately. Hotel rooms do run high. But, there’s a good way to lower that cost. If you plan to stay at least a week, rent a furnished apartment. You get all the comforts of home in a prime area at maybe half the price of what a hotel would cost. Search for these apartments by Googling “London furnished flat.”

The song may say, “I love Paris in the springtime.” But summers in London are cooler in temperature and warmer in almost every other way.

Ed Arnow can be reached at BrentwoodBuzz@aol.com.

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The very best way to end a busy year is to take stock while stopping over in various Caribbean ports of call.  This year I chose to spend the time on a five-day fabulous SeaDream II sailing.  She is one of two small yacht-cruise vessels holding a maximum of 98 pampered guests .  We coupled this with stopovers in St Thomas prior to boarding the ship and in San Juan Puerto Rico at the end making a balanced relaxing holiday.To say that service, food, water- and land-based activities abounded is to be severely understating the quality of this fine cruise.

This is The Cruise for the person who wishes low profile albeit attentive service.  By the time you have returned from breakfast topside cabins were remade, fresh Bulgari amenities replacing used ones, fresh ice in the ice bucket, and specially requested juices and sodas replenished in the mini-fridge.  Our cabin was completely ready and renewed for the day.  The ship has 3 cabin decks with ample outdoor space for walking or lounging, a small casino bar area downstairs and ample bar services topside, poolside and inside, a watersports deck in back and ample area to be either quiet or busier with others on board.  Up top are the famed lounging sunbeds.  These fabulously comfortable deep-cushioned deck beds can be made up at night for sleeping under the limitless star-filled skies!!!  Dining is just that — taken either in the lovely dining salon or up top on the varied deck dining areas with tables for two, four or more depending on your personal choice.  You can just enjoy the company of your traveling companion or with new-found shipboard friends.  There are no set dining start times so you dine as you wish and times you desire.  Everything on board SeaDream is meant to let you enjoy your time in your own fashion.  The wonderful Thai spa services are simply fabulous.  And if you must work out, there is a gym and even golf simulator room for your use.  This could not have been a more perfect five days of total enjoyment.

Ports-of-call:  Gustavia, St Barts was amazing with a long Swedish history and city design and a harbor full of some of the largest private yachts I have ever seen.  Our 4,333 ton SeaDream II seemed almost part of the family of private yacht cruisers anchored in the larger outer harbor area.  Dockside in town various private yachts were lined up side by side.  I had always heard that the air landing on the island was an heart-thumping arrival experience.  I climbed the saddle of the two hills behind town to find a small prop plane arriving just over my head and diving down to land expertly on the small strip.  French and Swedish traditions live side by side.  The liquor outlet advertised itself in both French & Swedish.  French is the language of St Barts today.   We also cruised over to spend time in the British Virgin Islands — lovely and unspoiled Virgin Gorda, Norman Island with its amazing cove and water, and finished our short cruise with the famed “beach lunch and champagne/caviar splash” on impeccable Joost van Dyke.  Yes, the Dutch were here, too!!!  Bathing suits on, we waded into the water where a surfboard manned by our ship’s chef and maitre d’hôtel and several of our waiters attired in slightly wet clothes served glasses of champagne along with caviar and all its accompaniments to applause and the clicking of camera lens as we waded in.  Great fun!

St Thomas proved once again that history trumps modernity.  The roots of this busy island keep cropping up in street names (Toldboldgade which is Danish), in left-side driving (England left her imprint here), in the variety of religious houses of worship (Lutheran founded by the Danes; Jewish in the 2nd oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere, as well as Catholic, Protestant and other declarative Christian houses of worship).  As a former free port as well as long time European entrepôt and former slave trading community, today’s population reflects the diversity of peoples who came here to live.  Island living means graciousness and hospitality to others.  Once outside the most densely visited sites of the busy cruise port restaurant-shops-souvenir warehouse district (itself fun and historical) you can feel the inherent grace of the island.  Waters are azure, aqua and green blue; palms and bougainvilleas sway and rustle in the tropical breezes, and fabulous iguanas are found along warmed walls and rocks, some green in their new lives – some more rusty/gray as they age.  Ah, island life.

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